TIPS, TRICKS & MORE...
How to apply decals
All you need are a few basic tools and a little patience
Like learning to spray a good high-gloss coat of paint, working with decals is one of the most essential -
and occasionally one of the most frustrating - techniques for car modelers. Almost every kind of car kit
has at least a few decals in the box, and learning to apply them will help you turn out cleaner,
more-realistic builds.
For this project I picked Tamiya's 1/24 scale Porsche 956 kit (No. 24309). The kit has been released
several times since it appeared in the mid-1980s, and when this Canon-sponsored version appeared
recently, I had to build it.
(My first real journalism job was as a news photographer, and the first professional camera I bought was a
very used Canon F-1. It took some creative financing to bring it home, but I knew I was going to need tools
I could depend on. That camera was built like a tank and never let me down, but since it's become a relic
of the film era, it's been in retirement in a place of honor on the shelf for the last few years. I'll never get
rid of it, though, and the Porsche would make a nice companion piece to display with it.)
A word about decal solutions: I used Microscale's Micro Sol and Micro Set for this project, but other setting
solutions are available, too. If you're not sure how one will react with the decals you're using, test the
solution on one of the decals you don't plan to use. The kit manufacturer's logo is usually included on the
decal sheet, and it's ideal for testing solvents.
Here's how I applied the model's Canon scheme, along with some tips to help you along.
and occasionally one of the most frustrating - techniques for car modelers. Almost every kind of car kit
has at least a few decals in the box, and learning to apply them will help you turn out cleaner,
more-realistic builds.
For this project I picked Tamiya's 1/24 scale Porsche 956 kit (No. 24309). The kit has been released
several times since it appeared in the mid-1980s, and when this Canon-sponsored version appeared
recently, I had to build it.
(My first real journalism job was as a news photographer, and the first professional camera I bought was a
very used Canon F-1. It took some creative financing to bring it home, but I knew I was going to need tools
I could depend on. That camera was built like a tank and never let me down, but since it's become a relic
of the film era, it's been in retirement in a place of honor on the shelf for the last few years. I'll never get
rid of it, though, and the Porsche would make a nice companion piece to display with it.)
A word about decal solutions: I used Microscale's Micro Sol and Micro Set for this project, but other setting
solutions are available, too. If you're not sure how one will react with the decals you're using, test the
solution on one of the decals you don't plan to use. The kit manufacturer's logo is usually included on the
decal sheet, and it's ideal for testing solvents.
Here's how I applied the model's Canon scheme, along with some tips to help you along.
Tamiya's Porsche 956 kit includes a great
set of Canon decals from Cartograf. The
project is great practice and makes a
great-looking model, too.
set of Canon decals from Cartograf. The
project is great practice and makes a
great-looking model, too.
Like a good paint job, good-looking decals need
properly-prepared bodywork as their foundation. I used
fine-grit sanding sticks and a couple of polishing pads
to remove some mold-separation lines. Although the kit
includes a fully-detailed engine compartment, I decided
to glue the front and rear sections of the body together.
properly-prepared bodywork as their foundation. I used
fine-grit sanding sticks and a couple of polishing pads
to remove some mold-separation lines. Although the kit
includes a fully-detailed engine compartment, I decided
to glue the front and rear sections of the body together.
After priming the model with flat-white primer, I
applied a coat of Tamiya's Pure White (TS-26) from a
spray can. Don't confuse Tamiya's Pure White with
Racing White (TS-7). Although the caps look the same,
Racing White is a darker, cream-colored paint.
applied a coat of Tamiya's Pure White (TS-26) from a
spray can. Don't confuse Tamiya's Pure White with
Racing White (TS-7). Although the caps look the same,
Racing White is a darker, cream-colored paint.
Although most of the model's red markings would
come from the decal sheet, some spots would need
a little paint, like inside the NACA duct on the roof,
and along the top edge of the fins on the rear
bodywork.
come from the decal sheet, some spots would need
a little paint, like inside the NACA duct on the roof,
and along the top edge of the fins on the rear
bodywork.
That's it! With its final parts added, the 956 is ready
to park next to my trusty F-1. Porsche sold 956s to
lots of privateer teams and there are lots of
aftermarket decal sheets in a huge variety of
schemes.
to park next to my trusty F-1. Porsche sold 956s to
lots of privateer teams and there are lots of
aftermarket decal sheets in a huge variety of
schemes.
When I have to apply a lot of decals to a model, I
usually formulate a plan of attack with a photocopy
of the decal sheet. I can cut the copy up and figure
out the best way to apply the markings without
risking the actual decals. A black-and-white copy
works just as well as a color one; I made this copy
on my home computer's scanner/printer.
usually formulate a plan of attack with a photocopy
of the decal sheet. I can cut the copy up and figure
out the best way to apply the markings without
risking the actual decals. A black-and-white copy
works just as well as a color one; I made this copy
on my home computer's scanner/printer.
You probably have most of these decaling tools on
your workbench already. Microscale Micro Set and
Micro Sol are decal-setting solutions; they help
soften the decals and pull them down over curves
and bumps. Their caps are identical, so it helps to
mark them with a Sharpie so you don't accidentally
swap them.
your workbench already. Microscale Micro Set and
Micro Sol are decal-setting solutions; they help
soften the decals and pull them down over curves
and bumps. Their caps are identical, so it helps to
mark them with a Sharpie so you don't accidentally
swap them.
After airbrushing the red onto the bodywork, I
painted the cockpit and headlight buckets flat
black. It's almost impossible to remove masking
tape from decals without damaging them, so it's
best to do as much painting as you can before you
start to decal.
painted the cockpit and headlight buckets flat
black. It's almost impossible to remove masking
tape from decals without damaging them, so it's
best to do as much painting as you can before you
start to decal.
To make sure the red paint I mixed would match the
decals, I applied a little dot of it along the edge of
the decal sheet. It's a good way to ensure a match
before you start painting and decaling.
decals, I applied a little dot of it along the edge of
the decal sheet. It's a good way to ensure a match
before you start painting and decaling.
What about clear coats? Modelers always debate
whether or not to add them over decals. Race cars
are almost never have show-car finishes, and you
can usually see where the paint stops and the
sponsor stickers start. As a final touch, I added a
light coat of car wax. It's just wax (without any
abrasives) so it shined up the finish without
hurting anything. A soft cotton cloth made it easy to
apply evenly.
whether or not to add them over decals. Race cars
are almost never have show-car finishes, and you
can usually see where the paint stops and the
sponsor stickers start. As a final touch, I added a
light coat of car wax. It's just wax (without any
abrasives) so it shined up the finish without
hurting anything. A soft cotton cloth made it easy to
apply evenly.
When I've applied all the decals and let them dry
thoroughly, there are usually a few spots of dried
glue and setting solution left on the model. Before I
add the final, easily-broken detail parts (such as
the sideview mirrors) I clean the model with a soft
piece of cloth moistened with warm water.
thoroughly, there are usually a few spots of dried
glue and setting solution left on the model. Before I
add the final, easily-broken detail parts (such as
the sideview mirrors) I clean the model with a soft
piece of cloth moistened with warm water.
It's not uncommon for air bubbles to get caught
under larger decals. When this happens, you can
cut a hole in the decal and release the air, using a
new No. 11 knife blade. After the bubble's released,
you can apply a little setting solution to the spot, to
help hide the hole.
under larger decals. When this happens, you can
cut a hole in the decal and release the air, using a
new No. 11 knife blade. After the bubble's released,
you can apply a little setting solution to the spot, to
help hide the hole.
Sometimes solvents won't do the trick with one
application. When I really need to beat down a
decal, I'll apply multiple coats of Micro Sol (one at a
time) and use a damp cotton swab to gently push
the decal over the irregularity.
application. When I really need to beat down a
decal, I'll apply multiple coats of Micro Sol (one at a
time) and use a damp cotton swab to gently push
the decal over the irregularity.
I used the paint brush to gently slide the panel into
position. After blotting it lightly with a cotton swab, I
brushed a coat of Micro Sol over the top of the
decal; it really softens the markings and helps them
pull down over irregularities. I remind myself to
apply them in alphabetical order: "Set," then "Sol."
position. After blotting it lightly with a cotton swab, I
brushed a coat of Micro Sol over the top of the
decal; it really softens the markings and helps them
pull down over irregularities. I remind myself to
apply them in alphabetical order: "Set," then "Sol."
Before applying this panel, I used a clean paint
brush to apply a light coat of Micro Set to the
model, where the decal would be landing. I slowly
pulled the backing paper from under the decal and
let the marking drop into place.
brush to apply a light coat of Micro Set to the
model, where the decal would be landing. I slowly
pulled the backing paper from under the decal and
let the marking drop into place.
Things stay relatively easy when you're applying flat
decals to flat, smooth surfaces. But what do you do
when there are curves or panel lines? That's where
the setting solutions come in.
decals to flat, smooth surfaces. But what do you do
when there are curves or panel lines? That's where
the setting solutions come in.
I place the wet decal on a section of paper towel
that's dampened slightly with water. In a few
moments, the decal will loosen from the backing.
Now you can slide the decal from the backing paper
into position on the model.
that's dampened slightly with water. In a few
moments, the decal will loosen from the backing.
Now you can slide the decal from the backing paper
into position on the model.
When it's time to start decaling, be careful about
the water you use. I keep a gallon of distilled water
under my workbench; it's inexpensive, and I know it
doesn't have any impurities that might mar the
finish after the water dries. For the same reasons, I
use a clean disposable cup every time, too. Dip the
decal in the water for a few seconds (usually no
more than ten) and remove it carefully.
the water you use. I keep a gallon of distilled water
under my workbench; it's inexpensive, and I know it
doesn't have any impurities that might mar the
finish after the water dries. For the same reasons, I
use a clean disposable cup every time, too. Dip the
decal in the water for a few seconds (usually no
more than ten) and remove it carefully.
