TIPS, TRICKS & MORE...
Kenn keeps ‘em flying – or so it would seem in his photograph – by casting
replacement prop blades in resin, then modifying them to look as if they’re in
motion.
Displaying a propeller-driven airplane in flight is somewhat futile when the
propeller is still. After looking at a myriad of photographs, I thought I would try
making a blurred prop image with an appearance that was something between a
rotating propeller and a stationary one. It dawned on me that the amount of blur
was dependent on the propeller speed and the shutter speed of the camera; so,
my artistic canvas was open to whatever I wanted to try. I settled on 1/1000 second
shutter speed and 1,500 rpm for the prop. This made a 1/32 scale image that was
about twice the width of the original blade.
I made a mold of the Dragon 1/32 P-51D EP propeller blade, then merged two
blades to get the width I wanted. After blending the contours and re-creating the
finish, I made another mold of the new contour. I then poured four new blades in
clear resin. CorelDRAW was used to make decals of a blurred prop blade the same
size as the clear blades. I then printed the images on clear decal film and placed
them on the new blades. Finally, I coated the blades with flat clear acrylic.
Although not perfect, this first attempt was rather interesting and certainly looked
better than stationary prop blades. Since there are several ways to change the
effects, a little more work with the process should be rewarding.
replacement prop blades in resin, then modifying them to look as if they’re in
motion.
Displaying a propeller-driven airplane in flight is somewhat futile when the
propeller is still. After looking at a myriad of photographs, I thought I would try
making a blurred prop image with an appearance that was something between a
rotating propeller and a stationary one. It dawned on me that the amount of blur
was dependent on the propeller speed and the shutter speed of the camera; so,
my artistic canvas was open to whatever I wanted to try. I settled on 1/1000 second
shutter speed and 1,500 rpm for the prop. This made a 1/32 scale image that was
about twice the width of the original blade.
I made a mold of the Dragon 1/32 P-51D EP propeller blade, then merged two
blades to get the width I wanted. After blending the contours and re-creating the
finish, I made another mold of the new contour. I then poured four new blades in
clear resin. CorelDRAW was used to make decals of a blurred prop blade the same
size as the clear blades. I then printed the images on clear decal film and placed
them on the new blades. Finally, I coated the blades with flat clear acrylic.
Although not perfect, this first attempt was rather interesting and certainly looked
better than stationary prop blades. Since there are several ways to change the
effects, a little more work with the process should be rewarding.
Casting about for an in-flight, moving
propeller display
FSM-RT0710_01
propeller display
FSM-RT0710_01
Easy way to heat paint
Tip: We all know that aerosol paint cans spray better when warm, and I found a way
to heat paint without having to use hot water or the stove.
A few years ago, someone gave me a “popcorn bag,” which is a couple of pieces
of fabric sewn together with popcorn inside that you heat in a microwave and put
on sore muscles and such. I found it works great to heat up spray cans and keep
them warm for a short period.
The bag I have is large enough for one to three cans, and can keep all of them
warm if I am doing multiple spraying in one session.
This method is much better than immersing a can in warm water, because it keeps
the cans dry, with less of a chance of water drops getting in the nozzle and ruining
the paint job.
Hope this helps someone out.
to heat paint without having to use hot water or the stove.
A few years ago, someone gave me a “popcorn bag,” which is a couple of pieces
of fabric sewn together with popcorn inside that you heat in a microwave and put
on sore muscles and such. I found it works great to heat up spray cans and keep
them warm for a short period.
The bag I have is large enough for one to three cans, and can keep all of them
warm if I am doing multiple spraying in one session.
This method is much better than immersing a can in warm water, because it keeps
the cans dry, with less of a chance of water drops getting in the nozzle and ruining
the paint job.
Hope this helps someone out.